The capital of Andalucía is a fragrant wonderland in spring or early summer. Go see it in the peak of all its splendid flamboyance. Sundrenched streets spill into regal plazas lined with orange trees, and blossoms fall like confetti from purple jacarandas. Everywhere is the sound of birdsong and horse hooves on cobblestone. Close your eyes and you may feel transported to another era.
Seville’s spirit descends from Moorish dynasties, matadors, gypsies and sailors. It is also home to literature’s most notorious playboy, Don Juan. These exotic influences are apparent in the romantic energy that emanates from the city today.
In the evening you’ll hear seductive riffs of flamenco guitar coming from the bars, followed by rhythmic clapping and hauntingly beautiful song. Shouts of encouragement inspire frenzied footwork under hoisted skirt hems. Silhouettes of female forms with arms arched overhead in bewitching grace resemble poses of bullfighters with hands lifted high on the verge of a fatal plunge. Dancing shadows flicker in fading light and roving parties crescendo into the night. Olé! Seville will leave you spellbound.
A great option for getting to Seville is to catch the AVE high speed train from Madrid’s Atocha Station. A one way ticket cost around 70 euros for a very comfortable seat in tourist class. I like to purchase tickets ahead of time on raileurope.com.
Listen to flamenco guitarists, Paco de Lucia or Sabicas, on the way.
Hotel Puerta de Sevilla is a lovely place to stay. An immaculately clean, charming room for two, with a balcony, costs around 90 euros per night. It is located in the historic city center, within walking distance of many top sites. I give it my highest recommendation.
Day One
Be sure to make visiting the Real Alcazar a priority. This royal palace has mudejar style architecture with mesmerizing tilework. The intricately carved décor looks like marble turned to lace. It seems to be straight out of an Arabian fairy tale. You will want to linger in the gardens filled with giant, twisting magnolias, roses and citrus trees. . .and the occasional peacock.
The palace complex is a UNESCO world heritage site and yes, you may recognize it from Game of Thrones. If you want to diminish your wait, buy your tickets ahead of time on https://realalcazarsevilla.sacatuentrada.es/
Afterwards, enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of the countless sidewalk cafes. Try a plate of calamari, refreshing gazpacho and of course, a glass of sangria.
Then get thee to the largest gothic cathedral in the world, la Catedral de Sevilla. Bask in the magnificence, see the tomb of Columbus and don’t miss the Patio de Naranjos, the beautiful courtyard of orange trees.
Later on, take some time to explore the colorful labyrinth of barrio Santa Cruz. Check out the boutiques and ceramic shops, pass through the picturesque plazas and stop by Naranjos de Sevilla for natural beauty products by Bendita Luz, crafted from locally sourced orange blossoms, known as azahar. www.benditaluz.es
In the evening, head to the oldest bar in Seville, El Rinconcillo, established in 1670. Get a spot around one of the barrel tables, order a vino tinto, a plate of delicious olives, and sliced jamon for starters. Admire the bartenders in their black vests and ties as they carry on the proud tradition of carving ham legs and writing tabs in chalk on the bar. It is seriously glorious.
Day Two
Visit the iconic Plaza de Toros, Spain’s most beautiful bull ring. The tour takes around 45 minutes, during which you will see sketches by Francisco Goya, “suits of light” worn by famous bullfighters, the matador chapel and the ring. Afterward, take a walk by the Guadalquivir River and see the Torre del Oro. Head back to a street behind the bull ring called Calle Arfe to find a place to eat.
Go see Casa de Pilatos. Many scenes in Lawrence of Arabia were filmed there. Afterwards, explore the shops and bars down Calle Aguilas and around Plaza Alfalfa.
Later, try tapas and wine at the bar named after one of the most famous bullfighters from Seville, Taberna Belmonte, on Calle Mateos Gago.
Day Three
Take a morning excursion to see some epic Roman ruins at Italica. This too was featured in Game of Thrones. At the Santa Justa bus station proceed down to the lower level and find the platform with the bus to Santiponce. One leaves about every half hour. Buy your ticket from the driver (approx. 3 euros). The trip takes around 30 minutes. The entrance tickets are about 2 euros. See the arena and don’t miss the mosaic tiles.
Use the rest of the day to wander and lounge in the tropical gardens at Parque de Maria Luisa and marvel at the famous Plaza de España. Beware of the women who try to hand you sprigs of rosemary as a “gift” because. . . they will want payment in return.
Seville, I could stay here for one thousand and one nights more.
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