Here’s to Cefalú

Cefalú is a medieval town on the Tyrrhenian Coast of Northern Sicily, where stone buildings are set in front of a mountain and hemmed in cerulean blue. Life unfolds here at a leisurely pace, like the lulling waves. It’s easy to explore with gelato in hand and then surrender to a sun soaked afternoon on the beach. You’ll find yourself wanting to retrace your steps for a second glance at all of the postcard views. It takes a little over an hour to get here by train from Palermo, but a day trip is not long enough for this seaside charmer.

 

Around mid-morning, get some gelato and wander the historic heart of the town. Browse the classy little shops filled with artisanal goods.

Visit the Arab-Norman Cathedral. It was built in the 1100s and has some of the oldest, best preserved Byzantine mosaics in Sicily. Its striking double towered façade looks like a fortress.

 

Take in the delightful view at the cove on Il Lungomare, the seafront promenade.

 

Head to Spiaggia di Cefalú, the main beach, to lounge and swim.

 

Break for lunch at one of the many seafront cafes. Try a Sicilian sandwich with fresh sardines, olive oil, salt and sliced lemon. These elements of citrus and sea make a heavenly combo.

 

Snack on some olives and ponder how great it would be to move here.

 

Plan a hike to La Rocca for incredible views amid the ruins of a Norman castle built in 1061. Take the long stretch of stairs from Piazza Garibaldi to the site entrance and pay four euros to get in.

Follow the switchback path that ascends beside a craggy cliff dotted with flowering cacti. Be on the lookout for goats wandering the steep maze of rocks.

Beyond the cliff, part of the castle wall comes into view, along with a series of massive hills that swell into luminous sky.

When you reach the pinnacle, take time to explore the perimeter of the wall. You might be tempted to climb out on the edge for a better look at the spectacular shoreline. You’ll understand why Sicily was the most invaded island in the Mediterranean. Everyone wanted to claim this paradise.

 

On the way down, take the trail to see the remnants of Tempio di Diana, a megalithic temple from the 4^th century BC that served as a sacred place for the worship of water.

The hike takes about forty minutes each way, so don’t forget to bring your own water.

 

Once you’ve made the descent into town and are ready for dinner, find a seat on the patio at L’Antica Corte in Piazza Crispi. Tables fill this cozy plaza alongside a 17^th century chapel, Chiesa dell’Itria, extending to the edge of the sea.

Order a traditional appetizer with sundried tomatoes, mushrooms, zucchini, salami and cheese. Then enjoy some swordfish pasta. Sip on chilled white wine and watch the powder blue evening fade into night.

 

Climb the stairs at the corner of the plaza and step out onto Bastione di Capo Marchiafava, a 17^th century fortification, to see how light is strewn on the coastline.

 

 

I loved staying at La Plumeria hotel in Cefalú’s historical center. The room in this renovated medieval building was everything you’d want and it had a great balcony.

 

It’s hard to be away from you, Cefalú.