Mondello is just a few miles from Palermo. You can catch a bus at Piazza Sturzo and be there in about 30-40 minutes. Go claim a little piece of the dolce vita at this fabulous beach.
It was a steamy Sunday in June when we spotted the bus in Piazza Sturzo and hurried to get on. The stone faced driver, sporting a pair of aviators, collected our ticket money and gave us a head nod. Most of the seats were already occupied, so we found a pole to cling to as we accelerated through the city traffic. It started to get crazy crowded. We rocketed through the roundabouts and kept collecting people until the last pocket of space was filled. Hands were layered on the pole, arms reaching from all directions, with a few neon rosaries hanging from some wrists. The air was muggy, but luckily it smelled of coconut sunscreen and cologne thanks to all of the local teens going to the beach on a date. There was no longer space to fall when we hit road bumps, just friction fit bodies providing padding. The driver honked and yelled at a passing car, then slammed the breaks. Our traveling mosh pit swayed as he throttled down the road into a thick jungle of palms and enormous cacti. Mondello Beach was the last stop. It was certainly worth the ride.
As we emerged from the bus, we caught a glimpse of the bright aqua water and heard a heavy techno beat. It broke with dramatic pause for a deep voice to sing, “boom-boom boom, boooom” in a suggestive manner. I still don’t know what song that was, but it became the perfect theme for my Mondello experience.
The beach spans between two cliffs that slope into the Tyrrhenian Sea. Men with washboard abs and pot bellies alike strut unabashedly in their speedos. Cheerful lines of umbrellas are bordered by art nouveau villas.
Yes, it was crowded, but not in a disagreeable way. Everyone was pretty mellow as they went about their beaching. You can pay to rent a chair with an umbrella or find a free spot of sand.
A vendor chanted, “Aqua, birra, corona!” with pleasantly melodic structure. This announcement looped on repeat as he trudged across the sand, weaving through oiled bodies, hauling an ice chest suspended over his shoulder.
A dreamy looking local paraded the shoreline with his wolf-like dog. His chiseled arms were embellished with the most lavish tattoos ever, resembling Byzantine mosaics. Saints were ascending in blue and gold ink over his biceps.
For lunch, try an unbelievably good sub sandwich from one of the stands. Ask for salsa rosa. And don’t forget the Moretti beer.
Sunbathe the day away in this paradise and enjoy the people watching.
The bus comes around frequently for a return trip to Palermo.
Thank you Mondello for a sweet day. I hope I’ll see you again soon.
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